Lhasa has been a really cool experience - all the Buddhist stuff is really fascinating, if a little overwhelming - but more than anything it's just amazing to be somewhere that is just a little bit too difficult (& expensive) to get to for the 'traveller trail'. We've obviously seen tourists but not many English ones, and compared to everywhere else we've been, it's nice to see that the main focus of the people here is their own everyday lives/religion and not (making a buck out of) tourism. Not sure how long the current regulations will be enforced (you need a Tibet Travel Permit as well as a Chinese Visa and you have to be with a guide to visit any sites and even to go to the airport) but it does add a certain charm!
Other things that have stood out for me here (that George hasn't already mentioned)... The food, definitely - for a country where Yak meat is a staple, the veggie options have been pretty damned good - Tibetan cuisine includes lots of dumplings (more the gyoza style than the Russian stodgy/dogfood style), tofu (it's much nicer here than at home) and there's also lots of Indian style food as well as Chinese - so we've eaten well. We've drunk a lot of tea - not builders of course (I don't like tea you see) but jasmine, chai masala, and we even tried the infamous Tibetan salty yak butter tea. The latter has a lot of bad press and, while I wouldn't choose to drink it ever (it tastes like mushroomy melted butter and must have a gazillion calories), it wasn't totally disgusting. Apparently it goes solid if you leave it to cool. Wow.
The hotel has also been lovely - in the old town, amidst lots of small alleyways with stalls and small shops everywhere selling yak butter, yak meat (some still complete with fur - so you know you're getting the real thing maybe??!) prayerwheels, veg, cakes, bread, traditional Tibetan clothing, wool, sunglasses etc) - and very Tibetan in style. It has a roof terrace where we have breakfast every morning with amazing views across the city - including the Potala Palace.
And finally, the sunshine has been an added bonus! We expected it to be pretty cold here cos of the altitude and based on the temperatures we've had elsewhere, and it is a little crisp in the mornings but pretty soon the sun is burning hot. You do feel very close to the sun up here (there I go being all spiritual again!) so we've been applying sun cream diligently.
Anyway, enough from us! We may get time to write again from Kathmandu tomorrow but if not we'll be off trekking for about 9 days so you all get a nice rest from our ramblings. Enjoy!
Om Mani Padme Hum xxxxxx
Morgitos, how are you? Want to read you! Millions love. Mum Meli
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